![]() The only question I have now is what component(s) are responsible for the failed leak-down test. Well, as far as my regulator is concerned, it's a good thing I picked one up ahead of time. The service manual says to do this at the end of the above "idling test", but I chose to do it with the jumper wire test instead (doesn't make any difference) Let's see what happens. If the pressure drops below 21 PSI in less than 5 minutes, then it could be a bad check valve at the fuel pump, a bad regulator, leaky injector(s), or an external leak in the system. Fuel pressure should stay above 21 PSI for at least 5 min. This is done by removing the jumper wire from the "fuel pump test connector" and watching to see if pressure remains. Next I'll do the leak-down test (premature loss of pressure after shut-down). If high, the only thing it can be is a bad regulator. After the 2 minutes is up, record fuel pressure (should be 30 - 33 PSI while idling). Next step is to start the engine and run for at least 2 minutes. These little rubber vacuum plugs come in handy for this. ![]() Next step is to remove the jumper wire from the "fuel pump test connector", then remove the vacuum line from the fuel regulator and plug the vacuum supply line. If you have any leaks STOP the test immediately and repair them before continuing! If pressure was low, it could be a bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or a bad regulator. ![]() High pressure can only be a bad regulator. Assuming the gauge is accurate, it looks like I have a bad regulator. Now I can check the pressure in the injector manifold. Next step is to turn the ignition switch to the "run" position (DO NOT START). I plug it into the test connector and jump the terminals together. Next I find my fuel pump test connector and pull it up where it's accessible I attach my gauge to the injector manifold. Next I open my hood and remove the cold start injector line from the injector manifold. Yippee! I have my very own custom Toyota van fuel pressure gauge ! I apply Teflon tape to prevent a fuel leak. Oddly enough, this pressure gauge uses a pipe thread. I center the clamp over the barb to ensure a tight seal. Having that barb on the end is important because the injector line is significantly smaller than the brass adaptor I'm splicing it to. I cut one end off and put the 1st half of a double flare in it using a 3/16" flare tool. Here is a cold start injector line I took off one of my parts vans. This kit is a real bargain for just $19.99. ![]() ![]() Van requires excessive cranking (about 5 seconds or so) for each start. I'm troubleshooting a hard start problem. The van I'm testing is an 89 2wd cargo van. For testing the fuel system I'm using Harbor Freight's cheap Injector Pump Test Kit. ![]()
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March 2023
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